It was quieter in the tents at Bryant Park this season. After the tragedy of September 11th tore through Spring 2002 fashion week six months ago, designers were met this February with the challenge of reevaluating budgets, designs, and the spirit with which they would present their collections. Many of the fashion bunch opted out of the Bryant Park venue this time around, choosing more economical routes like the Puck Building or the intimate quarters of their personal showrooms.

With the merging of men's and women's into one fall 2002 fashion week, many designers including Marc Jacobs, DKNY, and Custo Barcelona showed their men's wear looks on the same runway as their women's. With both sexes walking the catwalk simultaneously, it became apparent that androgynous dressing has without a doubt become a thing of the past. This fall, boys will look like boys, and the girls -as sweet and elegant as ever.

New York's fall men's wear runway paid tribute to the pioneering American spirit. Natural fabrications of leather, flannel, wool, denim and cashmere, took the stage with patterns and piles of plaids, corduroys and other lumber-jack-like looks. Sweater-dressing and additional sport-coating alternatives brought newness to fall 2002 installing style that feels as good as it looks. Designers Sean John, Kenneth Cole and John Bartlett each revealed their own take on outdoor-chic while Michael Kors and Ron Chereskin went for the Apres Ski effect. One thing for sure is that dressing OUT is IN.

Femininity returned to women's wear in a big way this season. Satin, silk-chiffon, beading, embroidery and roaring ruffles took the runway by storm in a variety of silhouettes and styles. Skirts appeared in just about every length from mini, to mid-calf, paired for the runway with everything from knee socks and pumps to slouch boots and strappy sandals. Trousers were also big and in all lengths, from knickers, to short-pants, to boot cuts. Though still low-riding and hipster style, the pant was shown new -accented with this year's most sought after accessory, the wide-belt.

As an all around women's wear roundup for fall 02', the most apparent themes to rock New York's runway last month were Black & White, as seen at Ralph Lauren and Helmut Lang, Gypsy-Chic Done New care of Anna Sui and Matthew Williamson, Girly Girl interpreted uniquely by Alicia Bell for Gen Art, Cynthia Steffe, and Luella Bartley, Glam 30's displayed at Luca Luca and Zac Posen, and Donned Denim brought to us by Baby Phat, Y & Kei and Girls Rule. And of course where there are celebrities, fashion and a New York vibe, there will always be parties. Lot 61, Lotus, Suite 16, Saci and other nightlife hot spots joined in the festivities of New York fashion week housing designer after-parties, magazine and newspaper galas and Fashion Week sponsor celebrations.

After the attacks that occurred last season, tighter budgets and an abridged designer line-up made these events fewer smaller and certainly harder to get invited to than in years past. Never-the-less if the shows must go on, so should the celebrations of the city that houses them, inspires them -the heart and soul of American fashion, NEW YORK.

by Jodi Lin Wiener